Creality Ender 3 S1 3d Printer Review

We will cover:

Machine Specs

Unboxing & Set Up

Print Quality

Conclusion

Creality Ender 3 S1 3D Printer Specs

Let's first run through the specs of the ender 3 s1. The Ender 3 s1 has a build area of 220 x 220 x 270mm, which is similar to the previous Ender3 printers, but gives you 20mm of extra height. Creality Ender3 S1 comes standard with a magnetic flex plate system for the bed, that is made up of a very thin spring steel and a textile sheet. The bed does include four large bed leveling knobs which are common seen on most of the other Creality printers. Ender3 S1 also has a CR touch for automatic bed leveling. CR Touch is basically creality's version of the bltouch. It works very similarly with bltouch, 3D touch leveling sensor. You can use it with any sort of build surface material.

Sprite Extruder of Ender 3 S1

Ender 3 S1 features the new sprite extruder which is by far the biggest advancement of this 3D printer. The sprite extruder is a fairly compact and lightweight extruder, weighing roughly 210 grams has dual gears and a fairly short and constrained filament path. There's a compact stepper motor used with it and it has two fans. One for hot and cooling and one for the layer cooling. The Sprite direct extruder comes with a ptfe lined or non all metal hot end which is something i am a bit saddened about. But Creality released the Sprite Pro which is a full mental direct extruder. The Ender 3 S1 has a filament runout sensor, X-axis and Y-axis belt tensioners and dual z-axis lead screw, that are connected with a belt to maintain alignment. You can print directly from the lcd screen using a full size sd card, which is really nice to see over the previous generation boards using a micro sd card, or you can hook up the printer to either your computer to print directly from it, or something like octoprint using a usb C cable, which is also something that's pretty cool to see.

The screen itself seems near identical to the one on the Ender 3v2 with, perhaps, a different firmware which supports auto dims after a few minutes of not being used. It works fine, but there's not a whole lot of options as far as control goes or getting feedback from the machine. However someone did tell me that there is already some form of a custom community firmware available for this.

There's a storage drawer in the front right of the printer for spare nozzles or holding various tools. i never really had any issues with the wiring on the previous generations of ender 3, but they definitely beefed up the strain relief on the bed for the ender 3s1. The cable management as far as how it's routed for the x carriage is also much cleaner.
The Creality Ender 3 S1 is a 24 volt system running marlin.
And they relocated the power supply to the underside of the machine to make space for  second z motor and second lead screw.
I opened the bottom of the machine to take a look at the electronics and found a 350 watt crowley branded power supply as well as a new controller from crowley called the crfdm v24 s1 301 which is quite a name and seems to have been made specifically for this printer. Cable management was quite nice. Ferro connectors were used and there is a fan in the case to help out with heat.

The ender 3 S1 came packaged very nicely and setup was pretty much the same as all previous ender 3 machines.
You’ll get the bottom of the machine fully assembled, and the x axis and z axis need to be attached with a couple of bolts. For most people from unboxing to printing, it's probably around 20 to 30 minutes tops.

Once powered on, you will need to run the automatic bed leveling, which does a 16 point grid. It does a couple of probes at each spot and it is a fairly slow process. It takes a couple of minutes but in the time i've been testing out this machine i think i've only done that the initial time and maybe one other time. It's not something you should be having to play around very often, especially if you make sure that the bed knobs are all nice and secured.

Once the leveling sequence has been ran, all that's left to do is set the z offset using a piece of paper and you are ready to start printing.

Print PLA with Ender 3 S1

We started off on stream loading up some blue pla to printing out the lucky cat model that most of the creality ender 3 have come with. And it turned out really really nice.

Once done, i was ready to slice up some files of my own. so i took the included sd card find the Creality slicer, which is just a skinned version of Cura. There is a new version of it is available on Creality’s website. You should find a built-in slicer profile for the creality ender 3 s1. 

The first print i started off with was a Mardi gras mask from chaos cortec which was a pretty large print that required supports on the underside and a little bit more for the eyes. It was close to a 20 hour print. and i was very pleased with the results. the supports came off really nicely and i felt like the s1 did a nice job with this model.

all of the files and all of the things i've sliced up to print out on the ender 3s1 have been printed with a 0.2mm layer height.

next i moved on to a more challenging mechanical part that required tight

tolerances created by 3d printing world. I started off printing out his mini planetary gear which although looked nice had fused together on the bottom. i felt confident that if i adjusted the z offset and i watched the first couple of layers that the printer could get it. so i sliced up his mini planetary gear compartment and i adjusted the z offset a bit to give less of a squish on the bed surface that print turned out perfect. and it is such a cool print in that it shows quite complex geometries tolerance compatibilities and it's functional for storage.

At this point the red pla i was using was getting low so i sliced up the atoms family thing model, which i didn't think i had enough material for in order to test out the filament runout sensor. the filament ran out, the printer paused and the head moved out of the way. i was able to swap in another spool. hit resume and finish the print without any issues.

Creality Ender 3 S1 review

I followed this up with two prints of the spiral rings ornament from 3d print bunny, which is a pretty tough model with some serious overhangs. The first time i printed it out. it did complete but early on maybe 25 into the print the nozzle did bump one of the rings causing it to sort of break off. and it did correct itself and complete the printing process.

Creality Ender 3 S1 Review

I went ahead and changed the filament for some proto pasta pla, and resized it with all the same settings. but i enabled z-hop and this time it was able to complete without bumping any of the parts. i wouldn't say that it is perfect, but considering the difficulty that this model is with all of its overhangs and really sort of small surface areas to build off of, I think the Ender 3 S1 did a great job. and i'm sure that if you spent time dialing in speeds and a few other cooling settings, you can get even better results with this model.

Creality Ender 3 S1 Review

Print PETG with Ender 3 S1

Next i decided to throw some petg at this printer. and I'm in the process of building the voron switch wire and wanted to print out one of my little hardware organizers.

while i'm building so i loaded up the hardware organizer, which is a fairly large print. i sliced it at a larger 0.3mm layer height, because i don't really need tight tolerances with this. I sliced it up at 0.3mm at 240 celsius on the hot end. The print didn't turn out bad and it's absolutely usable. but there's definitely some slight room for improvement. there's a couple areas of some sort of inconsistencies with extrusion.

Creality Ender 3 S1 Review

but because this hot end is not all metal. normally if i'm printing a 0.3mm layer height of petg i would have bumped that temp up to about 250 celsius. but because it's not all metal. the highest i really will ever go is 245, but i wanted to play it extra careful and so i printed it out at 240. i do think that was a huge contributing factor to some of those imperfections, but i still think that overall it did a pretty good job. and again messing around with the settings with a lower layer height, it will definitely yield some better results.

Before unloading that ptg i needed to print out a couple of small hooks for the carts that i used. and i printed that out with the exact same settings at 240 celsius at a 0.2mm layer height and those prints turned out really really nice. so again i absolutely think that this extruder is fully capable of printing with ptg.

Creality Ender 3 S1 Review

It's just the hot end limitation of not being on metal, that i wasn't able to print at the temperature that i typically would have. i did also print out all 20 drawers for this organizer but just in pla on this printer. and it had no problem doing that. i could have loaded up the entire bed, but i did them in batches of five, and each time i just hit print flexed them off hit print again and rinsed and

repeated and the s1 had no problems

printing out those parts.

The last thing i wanted to throw at the ender 3s1 with some tpu. not that you can't print tpu on bowdoin type extrusion systems. You absolutely can. but with this direct drive i felt that it should be able to do it quite well and it definitely can.

i found a tree frog model over on prusa printers that i scaled up and printed it

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at i believe 45 millimeters a second, which is pretty damn quick for a 95 a

short hardness uh filament so the the

machine had absolutely zero issues with extruding. there was no under extrusion

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whatsoever however it was not perfect it

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was actually quite far from perfect with

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the main issue being related to cooling

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the under 3s1 as i mentioned earlier has

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two cooling fans or two fans one for the

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heatsink and one for the layer cooling

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and the layer cooling fan isn't exactly

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a beefy fan it's certainly sufficient

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for just regular kind of average

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printing it did a great job of cooling

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all of the pla parts but with tpu and

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especially with how much i was trying to

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push it it just was not able to cool the

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overhangs quick enough and so it has a

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pretty nasty drip or sag on the

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underside of the frog for the chin area

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where it's got overhangs if you look at

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the top down it looks absolutely great

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but the thing i think could definitely

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be improved on this machine is either

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adding a beefier

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beefier fan or adding a secondary fan to

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help with cooling quicker overall i've

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really enjoyed my time using the ender

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3s1 and can absolutely see myself adding

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it into the rotation of the usual

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machines that i lean upon for a project

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i've used a lot of creality machines and

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i've used quite a few of their previous

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generations auto bed leveling

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specifically the

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cr20 pro and the

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cr10s

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pro and those both had automatic bed

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leveling but it was so terrible that it

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was basically unusable and it was that

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generation where i told a lot of people

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that i'd rather have no automatic bed

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leveling than automatic bed leveling

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that you're fighting against and i gotta

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say that it really feels like with the

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ender 3s1 and their cr touch both on the

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hardware side and in their

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implementation in the marlin firmware

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that they've got it figured out which is

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something super exciting to see i also

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have really enjoyed using the sprite

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extruder and it is a massive improvement

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over the single armed plastic crowd

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extruder or even their dual geared

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aluminum red extruder that comes on the

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ender 7 which i'm not crazy of having a

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direct drive extruder out of the box to

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me is something that i am a huge fan of

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i didn't mind the single lead screw on

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the previous generations of ender 3

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machines it just was never really

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problematic to me as long as i made sure

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that the eccentric nuts on the v-slot

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wheels were nice and tight but having a

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second lead screw is certainly something

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a lot of people like to have and it will

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prevent any sort of sag in your gantry

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so that's a nice upgrade and although

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the flex plate on this is spring steel

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it is very very thin but it is

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definitely an upgrade over the previous

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generation of crowley flex plates that

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were sort of like a magnetic mat that

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didn't really have great adhesion

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or i guess magnetic force and they also

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sort of

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wore down very quickly with this at

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least you can peel off that sticker and

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slap something else on so i do think it

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is a step in the right direction as far

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as their beds go i also complained quite

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a bit about noise with 3d printers and i

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just mentioned a few weeks ago that the

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ender 7 was an insanely loud printer

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well the under 3s1 is on the opposite

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side of that scale it is one of the

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quieter 3d printers i've used in some

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time so if noise is somewhat of a

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concern to you and you want a quiet 3d

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printer the ender 3s1 is certainly one

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of again the most quiet machines i've

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gotten in in some time as always there

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is no such thing as a perfect 3d printer

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and although i have really enjoyed using

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the sprite hot end extruder combination

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from crowlty i'm definitely disappointed

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that it is ptfe lined and not all metal

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i'd really like for us to get beyond

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that where all metal hotends just become

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the standard which really gives you the

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capability of printing with a much wider

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range of materials and you don't run the

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risk of melting the ptfe which can cause

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nasty fumes and damage your hot end in

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the past month creality announced the

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ender 3 s1 pro which comes with the

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sprite pro extruder hot end combo which

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is basically the exact same thing but

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with an all metal hotend instead of a

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ptfe line it also comes with a touch

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screen and it comes with a powder coated

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pei bed instead of the knockoff build

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tack and i don't understand it in in my

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opinion there is absolutely no need for

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an ender 3 s1 and an ender 3 s1 pro the

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ender 3 s1 should be the ender 3 s1 pro

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there there just isn't any need to have

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a distinction between ptfe and the all

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metal hot end or powder coated pei is

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definitely better than what comes on the

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ender 3 s1 and even the touch screen i

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just don't understand why they felt the

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need to make two different versions of

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the same machine when in reality there

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should just be one it should be the

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ender 3s1 that has all those things

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baked into it the ender 3s1 is retailing

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for around 430 dollars currently while

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the new announced pro is around 500

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maybe a little bit more and i just think

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that give all of that stuff for 430 i

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just don't understand the pricing

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difference either for a tiny piece of

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metal that makes it from ptfe to all

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metal a powder coated pei bed to replace

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the knockoff build tack and the touch

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screen which most

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a lot of budget 200 range 3d printers

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are coming with i feel that they could

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have incorporated all that into the

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ender 3s1 versus making you choose

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between spending 500 for an all-metal

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hotend and the you know touchscreen and

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the powder coated versus getting the

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other

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regular ender 3 s1 what i'm really

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hoping for is that somebody releases an

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all metal heat break upgrade for the

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ender 3 s1 that way you can get the

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ender 3s1 and you can easily drop the

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heater block slap in a new one for a you

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know not crazy expensive and then have

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an all metal hot end regardless there's

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no denying that the ender 3 s1 comes

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with some serious improvements over the

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previous generation of ender 3 machines

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and it's something i'm really happy to

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see but it certainly comes at a cost as

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mentioned the ender 3s1 right now is

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around 430 dollars while you can pick up

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the original ender 3 for around the 200

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price point and that goes up or down

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depending on whether it's on sale or not

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starting off with that base ender 3 you

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could get a big treetech 32-bit board

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for around 50. a automatic bed leveling

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or bl touch for around 30 and something

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like the micro swiss all metal and

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direct drive extruder for about a

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hundred dollars which puts you roughly

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in the ballpark of the price of the

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ender 3s1 except you also get an

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all-metal hotend if you go that route

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and upgrade i think the defining factor

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is really this question and it's do you

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want to mod if you are fine with modding

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or enjoy modding or just don't want to

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spend the money up front because you're

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not really sure maybe it's your first 3d

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printer and you you don't want to spend

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a lot of money if it's not something you

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think that you're going to be using long

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term well there's nothing wrong with

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starting with that ender 3 and deciding

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yeah i love this i want to upgrade and

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now going along the upgrade process

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however if you are somebody that doesn't

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have any desire to do any modding or

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playing around with any of the wiring or

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firmware side of things and would like

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closer to a plug and play experience

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which 3d printing is not plug and play

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but at least closer to that then i can

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certainly see the value in the ender 3s

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one giving you a lot of those things but

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just

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out of the box instead of having to

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source different components and go

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through the upgrade process yourself i

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don't think there's a right or wrong

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answer and it really comes down to who

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you are and what your goals are with the

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3d printer and as someone that

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absolutely loves modding just about

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everything but certainly 3d printers i

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can still appreciate the idea of having

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a 3d printer that you plug in you run

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its little leveling sequence and you

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just start printing with it and that's

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really the extent of what you do with it

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so again it comes down to who you are

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and what you want from the machine and

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that has been the ender 3s one again

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i've really enjoyed using this machine i

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was very excited to see creality

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announce the sprite extruder because it

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is a direct drive and dual gear which is

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nothing that they've done in their

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previous generations of 3d printers and

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i think it is absolutely a step in the

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right direction let me know in the

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comments down below i know a ton of

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people own the original ender 3 or some

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variation of an ender printer what are

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your thoughts on the ender 3s1 i'd love

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to know do you think that these upgrades

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are great do you not really care because

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you're fine with going the modding route

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i know a lot of the viewers on my

20:35

channel definitely are no strangers to

20:38

modding but i'd love to know in the

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comments what your sort of opinions are

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on the ender 3 s1 and also the ender 3s

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one versus the ender 3 s1 pro just what

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your thoughts are on that if you do want

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to find out more about this printer or

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purchase one for yourself i will have

20:52

links below in the description and also

20:54

if you have any questions on anything i

20:55

covered or maybe did not cover in this

20:57

video please let me know in the comments

20:58

and i will do my absolute best to answer

21:01

on that note don't forget to like and

21:02

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21:07

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21:08

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21:10

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21:12

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21:13

rewards huge thank you to all of our

21:14

existing patreon supporters i appreciate

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21:23

on that note this has been dana from

21:25

modbot and i look forward to seeing you

21:26

guys in my next video peace guys